15- | Sweetmook Lord Dung Dung

To the lowland cartographers who first heard the name whispered in the 1920s, it was a nonsense phrase, surely a prank by guides or a garbled translation. They dutifully recorded “Sweetmook” as a possible corruption of the local Swe-Tamuk (“One who turns waste to warmth”), and “Dung Dung” as an onomatopoeic reference to the hollow thump-thump of a dried patty being tapped for quality. But they missed the forest for the trees. Or rather, they missed the dung for the pasture.

Lord Dung Dung the 15th is a small, surprisingly cheerful man of about sixty years, with eyes that crinkle like dried apples and hands stained a permanent brownish-green. He presides over a domain of three valleys and approximately 1,200 yaks. His duties are crucial. He determines the weekly “combustion schedule”—which pasture’s dung is ready for cooking fires, which for temple braziers (a sweeter, slower burn), and which, when mixed with clay and ash, becomes the famous “black bricks” used to insulate the village granary. Sweetmook Lord Dung Dung 15-

In 2016, a clean-energy NGO arrived with plans to install solar panels and methane digesters. The villagers listened politely, then declined. “Solar does not work in the four months of darkness,” the village headman said. “And a methane digester cannot tell you, by the feel of a patty in the rain, that a blizzard is coming in two days.” Lord Dung Dung the 15th had demonstrated this very skill the previous week, ordering all dung to be moved indoors. The blizzard arrived, the fires burned, and the NGO’s equipment froze solid in a shipping container. To the lowland cartographers who first heard the